
Flay, and a test case for whether any celebrity chef can command both the mass-market spotlight and credibility as a culinary auteur. Gato represents an obsessive midlife quest for Mr. In February, he and his longtime business partner, Laurence Kretchmer, plan to open Gato, the chef’s first new Manhattan dining establishment in nearly a decade. Flay has not had a restaurant that is considered part of New York’s pantheon, and he clearly craves the extra splash of respect that that once brought him. Flay has declined offers to swivel his hips on “Dancing With the Stars.”)īut one important achievement has eluded him. (Put in a call to Todd English or Rocco DiSpirito if you want a few lessons on how a ride on the gravy train can go off the rails.

Of all the chefs of the last two decades who have tried juggling the roles of hands-on cook, TV star, face of an expanding entrepreneurial empire and human being with some dignity left intact, Mr. The setting was a soundstage in Brooklyn where he was taping a new Food Network show called “Beat Bobby Flay.” As with other programs that have involved the effortlessly charming, perpetually multitasking, maddeningly slim chef who can come across as the George Clooney of American gastronomy, the show was predicated on the simple idea that it’s fun to try to make Mr.

Last month, on the day after he turned 49, Bobby Flay could be found where most of his fans expect him to be: racing around with a knife in a big room bathed in spotlights.
